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Need assistance with removal of Suburban hot water heater
QUESTION:I am dong some dry-rot repair work in my TT which is going to
require me to remove my hot water heater (along with my fresh water tank).
It looks pretty cut and dry on how to remove the hwh, however I cannot find
my manual for it ANYWHERE. Mater of fact, I can't find ANY of the manuals I
have for my TT! But, I'll deal with that later.
So, if anyone has any experience with removal/installation and can give some
suggestions, I would be very grateful! Since I can't find the manuals, here
is the information that I got from the outside tag:
Model: SW6P
Stock: 5031
Orifice Size: 61
Tank Cap: 60 gal
Gas Input: 12,000 BTU/Hr.
Manual No: (DOH!)
The tank sits right on top of the inside floor. It appears what is holding
it in is a series of screws around the outside of the frame of the hwh.
What looks like is going to be the most difficult part in removing this is
the gas line. It runs from under the trailer, up though the floor inside
and then out through a hole in the frame of the hwh (covered with a TON of
silicone that is going to be a pain in my rear to remove I might add). On
the outside where the gas line comes out what seems to be a nut that that
connects the gas line the thermostat, gas valve and to the blower down to
the orifice. This nut is in a really tight spot and is going to need some
clever coordination to get it loose.
Is my way of thinking correctly all that needs to be done is remove all of
the screws on the outside frame and disconnect the gas line? It looks like
after this is done it should slide right out. Am I missing anything
critically important? (besides turning off the gas of course )
Also, is there a safe way to plug up the gas line once the hot water heater
is removed so the gas can be turned on again? The trailer is not at a
location that has AC power and I may need to use the gas furnace to dry out
the remaining wood that is under the hot water heater and fresh water tank
before treating the wood. I've already removed the linoleum everywhere else
and I am currently using the furnace to dry out the wood. BTW Ben, I'm going
to use the Doctor Rot stuff you recommended to me.
ANSWER: Other than also disconnecting the water lines- you've got it
(almost). The silicone around the gas line probably will not be that
difficult to remove- and the should be a rubber grommet that will just
pop out there, as well.
The exterior frame is a separate part, held on to the water
heater by the three long screws (you should see them- one on the top,
and one on each side)- remove this first, because sometimes there are
screws holding the water heater to the frame driven sideways, which
are covered up by the exterior door flange.
I like to 1- drain the heater, 2- remove the door flange and
other screws so that the heater is loose, 3- before removing the
bottom pipe (cold) I tip the heater forward to drain any more water
out. 4- remove the LP line- pull the heater out just a little and push
the line back into the trailer.
You need a 3/8" flare plug to cap the LP line- available at
most hardware stores.
Also- the nice thing about removing the door flange separately
is that a couple of screws will hold it in, if you want to button up
the hole.
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